July 20, 2013
THE SHUTTLE from our campground in Rising Sun leaves for Logan Pass on another extra hot, extra sunny day in Glacier NP. It's around 11:30 and we've finally got our shit together ready to be in the mountains. The Highline trail, leaving from Logan Pass, starts right at the Continental Divide at an elevation of 6800 ft.
Our first encounter with wildlife was no more than three minutes into the hike! A few big-horn sheep were chillin in the mountain meadow, little did I know the rest of the herd was just around the corner. There is something very powerful and organic about experiencing animals in the wild where they are at home and you are invading their space.
These incredibly large big-horn sheep were strong, and far from being sheepish. Bah! A slightly intimidated self watched in awe as the entire herd treaded past me no more than ten feet in front of my face. I soaked up the moment with marvel and disbelief as I watched them run up mountain terrain with an effortlessly smooth motion about their step. Another corner housed mountain goats in the sheer cliff. One being a cute little baby goat...not the last we would see of these rather careless looking creatures.
Rachel seemed to be loosing it with one of the most epic views the US has to offer. The first eight miles were taking their toll though, and we weren't at all prepared for what the mountain had to throw at us. With a stress and time crunch to catch the shuttle back to Rising Sun we were caught in the middle of the trail with a desicion to make. Right about then was when a mountain goat and her baby decided to block the trail. I took that as a sign to take it easy and soak in all the beauty that the sun was lighting up in front of me. Approaching with caution we passed the goat, who seemed to be pretty consumed with eating some grass.
Not ten minutes later a Bald Eagle flies right above me in an elegant silet flight of grandeur, commanding my respect and admiration once again for this great bird of prey. It's broad wingspan is motionless as it glides upward on a thermal and out of sight around a ridge. I was unaware of their presence in these higher elevations, which lead me to believe that it may be a Golden Eagle or a Bald Eagle without its full plumage (which can take over 4 years).
THREE MILES later we staggered up some rocky steps to a chalet at the top of the mountain called "Chalet". Genius. Searching for a slight bit of relief from the beating sun and maybe some water, we found nothing but wretched smelling pit toilets and billions of annoying little bitches called flies. At this point we were out of water and I thought Rachel was going to die. No doubt this had been one of the hardest things she has ever taken upon herself. The terrain was difficult, and the speed we were going caught us up to people that started the same trail at 9am. As we finished the last spoonful of our cheddar-broccoli-potato chunky soup (cold and fresh out of the can of course) we set off for four miles of descending shin-breaking bliss with a 2600 ft. loss in elevation to "The Loop" parking lot to catch the shuttle.
BACK AT LOGAN PASS we just catch the shuttle and sit in front of our new friends for the two hour ride back to our campsite. Freddy and Stacey are on their honeymoon, here from Chicago, and just blasted through the same trek we had. It's not very often you meet younger, more relevant people here, most are retired folk driving their expensive bus RV's around the country in complete comfort. They've got some good stories, but these Chicago folk were going for beer after, and I liked that.
There is a place in East Glacier called "Kips Beer Garden" owned by a man named Coyote Bill and his Native Indian 'partner,' who wasn't feeling to well on account of him having just passed kidney stones through his private area. This is where we met Freddy and Stacey for some post hike brews, and some entertaining conversation. This incredibly decieving bar was a pretty hip place, with $8 pitchers of PBR and some live bluegrass comin up. How can you go wrong in the middle of nowhere with that action?
Rachel had mentioned the last time we had a legit shower and Stacey invited us back to their KOA site where we used the showers. This is somewhere I'm sure we will arrive at again! After more brews and some much needed pizza, we said goodbye to our new friends and genuinely wished to see them again on our way back through Chicago for some deep-dish pizza.
LEAVING GLACIER was a joyful feling of satisfaction this morning, with excitement in reaching the Canadian border later this evening.
- Previs
